Gap-free amigurumi example - tight tension

Why Does My Amigurumi Have Holes or Gaps?

Stuffing showing through your amigurumi? The fabric is too loose. Drop a hook size or two for a tight, gap-free finish - plus invisible decrease and magic ring tips.

Gap-free amigurumi example - tight tension

There's nothing more disappointing than stuffing a cute amigurumi and watching the filling peek through the stitches. Holes and gaps are a classic beginner issue — and the fix is usually one simple change.

Quick answer: Amigurumi shows holes and gaps when the fabric is too loose — almost always because the hook is too big for the yarn or your tension is loose. Drop down one or two hook sizes to create a tight, dense fabric, and the stuffing will stay hidden.

The main causes of holes in amigurumi

1. Your hook is too big for the yarn

This is the number-one cause. Amigurumi needs a much tighter fabric than a garment, so you use a hook smaller than the yarn label suggests — usually 2.5–4.0 mm with DK or worsted yarn. A large hook leaves gaps the stuffing pushes through. See our yarn & hook size guide for the right pairing.

2. Your tension is too loose

Even with the right hook, loose tension creates open stitches. Hold your yarn a little firmer and keep each stitch snug and consistent.

3. You're not working in continuous rounds

Amigurumi is usually worked in a continuous spiral, not joined rounds. Joining each round with a slip stitch and chain can leave a visible seam and gaps. Use a stitch marker to track the start of each round instead.

4. Your magic ring isn't pulled tight

A loose magic ring leaves a hole right at the start. Pull the tail firmly to close the centre completely before you continue, and weave the tail in securely.

5. Gaps appear at colour changes or decreases

Standard decreases can leave little holes. Switch to the invisible decrease (invdec), which works into the front loops only and closes the gap. For colour changes, complete the last yarn-over of the previous stitch in the new colour for a clean join. Our increases & decreases guide shows how.

Quick fixes at a glance

Problem Fix
Stuffing shows all over Drop down 1–2 hook sizes; tighten tension
Hole in the centre start Pull the magic ring fully closed
Gaps at decreases Use the invisible decrease (invdec)
Seam/gap up one side Work in continuous spiral rounds, not joined rounds
Holes at colour changes Change colour on the final yarn-over of the previous stitch

The golden rule of amigurumi tension

If you remember one thing: amigurumi fabric should feel firm, like a tight knit, with no daylight between stitches. Hold a finished piece up to the light — if you can see through it, go down a hook size and try again. A denser fabric also holds its shape better and looks far more professional.

Make a gap-free toy

Every design in our amigurumi collection lists the exact hook size for a tight, neat finish — and our free patterns are a great place to practise.

Shop amigurumi patterns →

Frequently asked questions

Why does my amigurumi have holes?

The fabric is too loose, almost always because the hook is too big for the yarn. Drop down one or two hook sizes to make a tight, dense fabric so the stuffing stays hidden.

What hook size stops stuffing showing through?

Use a hook one to two sizes smaller than the yarn label recommends, usually 2.5–4.0 mm for DK or worsted yarn.

How do I close the hole in the middle of my amigurumi?

Pull the magic ring tail firmly to fully close the centre before continuing, then weave the tail in securely.

How do I stop gaps at decreases?

Use the invisible decrease (invdec), which works into the front loops only of the next two stitches and closes the gap neatly.

Tight, even stitches are the secret to beautiful amigurumi — and they come quickly with practice. Want to check your tension? Try our free gauge calculator, or read our best yarn for amigurumi guide.

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