How to Half Double Crochet (hdc) — Step-by-Step Tutorial
The half double crochet — abbreviated hdc in US patterns — is the friendliest stitch in the entire crochet language. It is taller than the single crochet, shorter than the double crochet, faster to work than either, and produces a soft drapey fabric that is gorgeous for blankets, garments, hats, scarves and the textured highlights of an amigurumi. Once you can chain and single crochet, the half double is the stitch that opens up everything else: patterns become readable, projects grow faster, and your hands learn the "yarn over before insertion" rhythm that every taller stitch shares.
At MrsCrochetWorld, we use the hdc whenever a piece needs more height than a single crochet but more density than a double crochet — most commonly in amigurumi necks, hat brims, and the slightly raised ears of larger plushies. In this complete tutorial you will learn exactly what the half double crochet is, how it compares to its sister stitches (sc and dc), the step-by-step technique with the critical "yarn over BEFORE inserting the hook" rule, the turning chain, how to count finished hdc rows, where the hdc shines in amigurumi, and the typical projects beginners can tackle as soon as they learn it. By the end of this guide you will be able to crochet a half double in five seconds and a full row in five minutes.
📑 In This Tutorial
- What is a half double crochet?
- Half double vs single vs double crochet
- What you need to practise
- Step-by-step: how to half double crochet
- The turning chain — chain 2 explained
- Counting half double crochet stitches
- Half double crochet in amigurumi
- Typical projects to practise hdc
- Common hdc mistakes to avoid
- FAQ — your hdc questions answered
- Pattern recommendations
What is a half double crochet?
The half double crochet (hdc) is one of the four basic stitches in US-terminology crochet, sitting between the single crochet (sc) and the double crochet (dc) in both height and density. Where the single crochet uses zero yarn-overs before insertion and finishes through two loops, and the double crochet uses one yarn-over before insertion and finishes through two-then-two loops, the half double crochet uses one yarn-over before insertion and finishes through all three loops at once. That single difference — pulling through three loops in one motion instead of two-then-two — is what makes the stitch "half" of a double crochet. It is faster than the double, softer than the single, and sits at roughly 1.5 times the height of an sc.
The fabric the hdc produces has a distinctive look: from the right side, you see neat horizontal Vs like single crochets but slightly taller; from the back, you see a row of "bumps" (the third loop) running along the top of each row, which is one of the most interesting design features of the stitch. Crocheters often work into this third loop instead of the top Vs to create a knit-like ridged texture, but for now, work into the standard Vs as you would for any other stitch.
Half double vs single vs double crochet
Understanding where the hdc sits in the family of basic stitches helps you choose the right one for the right project. Here is the comparison at a glance.
| Stitch | Abbreviation | Yarn-over before insertion? | Final pull-through | Height | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Single crochet | sc | No | Through 2 loops | Shortest, densest | Amigurumi, dishcloths, sturdy fabric |
| Half double crochet | hdc | Yes — once | Through 3 loops at once | Medium-short, drapey | Blankets, hats, scarves, amigurumi accents |
| Double crochet | dc | Yes — once | Through 2 loops, then 2 loops | Medium-tall, open | Granny squares, shawls, lacy fabric |
| Treble crochet | tr | Yes — twice | Through 2 loops, twice more | Tallest, very open | Lace, doilies, fast cover blankets |
📌 US vs UK terms: In US patterns, "half double crochet" (hdc) is what UK patterns call "half treble crochet" (htr). The stitch is identical — only the name changes. At MrsCrochetWorld, all patterns use US terms unless explicitly noted. If you are following a UK pattern, "htr" means the exact same motions described in this tutorial.
What you need to practise the half double crochet
Like every basic stitch, the hdc requires almost nothing to learn. If you have already practised the single crochet, you are fully equipped.
| Item | Recommendation | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Yarn | Worsted weight (4) cotton or acrylic in a solid pastel | Solid colours show stitch definition; cotton has zero stretch so loops are visible |
| Hook | 5.0 mm (H) or 5.5 mm (I) | One size larger than for amigurumi single crochet — hdc benefits from looser gauge for drape |
| Stitch marker | Locking stitch marker | Helpful for marking the first stitch of each row when learning |
| Scissors | Small craft scissors | For cutting yarn at the end of a swatch |
| Tapestry needle | Blunt size 16 yarn needle | For weaving in ends after binding off |
💡 Beginner trick: Practise on a foundation chain of about 15–20 stitches in worsted-weight yarn. The hdc is most legible at that scale — short enough to see the whole row, long enough to feel the rhythm of yarn-over insertion. Spend 15 minutes here and the stitch is yours forever.
Step-by-step: how to half double crochet
The half double crochet is six small motions in sequence: yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through three. The crucial difference from the single crochet is that you yarn over before you insert your hook — this extra loop is what gives the hdc its height. Once your hands learn that "yarn over first" rhythm, every taller stitch (dc, tr) will feel natural.
Make your foundation chain
Chain at least 12–15 stitches loosely. Add 1 extra chain at the end (the turning chain). Your hdc rows will begin in the third chain from the hook (the 2 chains closest to the hook become the turning chain).
YARN OVER — before inserting!
This is the critical step that beginners often skip on autopilot from the single crochet. Wrap the yarn around your hook from back to front, one full loop. You now have one working loop plus a yarn-over loop sitting on the hook. This extra height is what makes the stitch a half double instead of a single.
Insert the hook
Insert your hook into the third chain from the hook (or the next stitch in subsequent rows). The hook passes through both top loops of the V-shape of the chain or stitch.
Yarn over and pull through the stitch
Wrap the yarn around the hook again, then pull that wrap back through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook: the original loop, the yarn-over from Step 2, and the new wrap you just pulled through.
Yarn over one more time
Wrap the yarn around the hook a third time. The hook now has three loops plus the new yarn-over sitting on top.
Pull through all three loops at once
Pull the new yarn-over back through all three loops on the hook in a single smooth motion. When you finish, exactly one loop remains on the hook — that loop is the start of the next stitch. Congratulations: one complete half double crochet.
💡 The hdc rhythm: Chant aloud while learning — "yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull, yarn over, pull through three." Your hands will memorise the rhythm within 20 stitches. The "yarn over first" beat is the same rhythm you will use for double and treble crochet, so this is the most important muscle memory you will build in early crochet.
The turning chain — chain 2 explained
When working hdc back and forth in rows, you need to lift the yarn to the height of the next row before you can start. This is what a "turning chain" is for. The hdc turning chain is two chains — slightly shorter than a half-double-crochet column but close enough to keep the edge straight.
Here is where it gets slightly confusing for beginners: depending on the pattern, the chain-2 turning chain may or may not count as the first stitch of the row. There are two conventions and both are correct — patterns just need to be clear about which they use.
Convention 1: chain-2 counts as a stitch
At the start of each row, chain 2. Skip the first stitch of the previous row (because the chain-2 stands in for it) and begin the row's first hdc in the second stitch. At the end of the row, work the last hdc into the top of the previous row's turning chain. This convention produces clean square edges but can leave a small gap at the start of each row.
Convention 2: chain-2 does NOT count as a stitch
At the start of each row, chain 2 — but treat it purely as a height-builder. Begin the row's first hdc in the very first stitch of the previous row (not the second). At the end of the row, do not work into the previous row's turning chain. This convention produces fuller edges with no gaps but adds one extra "phantom" stitch to your edge column.
📌 Which convention do MrsCrochetWorld patterns use? We use Convention 2 — chain-2 does NOT count as a stitch — for almost all our flat-row hdc work. It produces a cleaner edge without the start-of-row gap. We always note this at the top of any pattern that uses hdc rows.
⚠️ Edge tilting: If your edges start tilting one way as you build up rows, you may be miscounting the turning chain. Pause at the end of each row, count every stitch including or excluding the turning chain depending on convention, and make sure your stitch count stays constant.
Counting half double crochet stitches
Counting your stitches is the single most important habit in crochet. A miscount on row 1 becomes a wonky shape on row 20. The hdc is slightly trickier to count than the single crochet because of the chain-2 ambiguity, but once you know what to look for, it becomes second nature.
How a finished hdc looks from the front
From the right side, a completed hdc looks like a small V on top — similar to a single crochet — but taller. The post of the stitch (the vertical column below the V) is roughly 1.5 times the height of an sc post. Count the Vs across the top edge of your row, not the bumps along the sides.
How to count when chain-2 counts as a stitch
The turning chain at the start of each row counts as one V. Count it as stitch number 1. Then count every actual hdc V across to the end. Your total should match your pattern's stitch count.
How to count when chain-2 does NOT count
Ignore the turning chain entirely — it is height-only, not a stitch. Count only the real hdc Vs across the row. Add the un-counted turning chain and you will overshoot by one.
The "third loop"
Look at the back of a completed hdc row. You will see a row of bumpy loops running along the top — these are the third loops that gave the stitch its "pull through three" finish. Some patterns ask you to work the next row's stitches into this third loop instead of the standard V. The result is a horizontal ridge — beautiful for hat brims, basket rims and decorative trim.
💡 Mark the count: Place a stitch marker in the very first hdc of each new row and another in the last hdc of each row. After completing each row, count between the markers. If your count is one off, you have either missed the last stitch or counted the turning chain twice.
Half double crochet in amigurumi
The single crochet is the heart of amigurumi — but the half double crochet has its own important place in plushie design. We reach for the hdc whenever a piece needs to grow slightly faster than a single crochet allows, while still retaining enough density that stuffing does not push through.
Typical amigurumi uses for hdc
- Neck transitions. A row of hdc between the head and the body adds elegant height to longer-necked characters like giraffes, dinosaurs and ducks.
- Hat brims. When a plushie wears a hat, the brim is almost always hdc — it produces a soft slightly flared edge that drapes naturally.
- Larger ears. Floppy bunny ears and elephant ears use hdc rows because the slightly taller stitch creates a softer, more naturally drapey ear than single crochet would.
- Skirts and capes. Plushie clothing benefits from the drape of hdc; full single crochet skirts look stiff and unrealistic.
- Bunny tails and pom-pom bases. A round of hdc at the very tip of a tail piece widens the shape without sacrificing density.
The third loop technique in amigurumi
Working into the third loop of hdc rows creates a horizontal ridge that beginners love for adding texture to plushie bodies, hat brims, or the joining seam between head and body. To work in the third loop, simply insert your hook into the bumpy loop on the back of the previous row's hdc rather than the top Vs. The result is a visible decorative line that runs around the plushie.
📌 Density tip: When using hdc in amigurumi, drop your hook one full size smaller than for flat work. So if your hat brim uses 5.0 mm, your hdc neck transition on the amigurumi body should use 4.0 mm. The smaller hook keeps the fabric dense enough to hide stuffing.
Typical projects to practise half double crochet
Once you can hdc confidently in rows, an entire category of fast-finishing projects opens up. Here are the projects beginners typically tackle as their first "real" make after learning the stitch.
A simple scarf or cowl
Chain 25 stitches. Hdc back and forth in rows for as long as you like — for a scarf, 150–200 cm long; for a cowl, work 30 cm and seam the short ends together. A worsted-weight scarf takes about 8–10 hours total and uses 300–400 g of yarn. The hdc stitch is fast, looks beautiful in solid colours, and produces a wonderfully drapey scarf that beats single-crochet stiffness every time.
A baby blanket
Chain 80 stitches in soft cotton or merino. Hdc each row in a single colour or change colours every 10 rows for a striped effect. A 60 cm × 80 cm baby blanket uses about 500 g of yarn and finishes in 15–20 hours of work. The drape and density of hdc are perfect for newborn snuggles.
A washcloth or kitchen cloth
Chain 24 stitches in dishcloth cotton. Hdc back and forth until the piece is square. Bind off and weave in ends. A washcloth is the perfect overnight project and the perfect first "useful" item once you have learned the stitch.
A simple slouchy beanie
Work in the round in continuous hdc rounds with strategic increases at the top. A worsted-weight beanie finishes in 3–4 hours and makes an ideal gift. The hdc gives the brim and crown beautiful drape without the stiffness of single crochet.
An amigurumi plushie with hdc ears or hat
Many of our 50+ No-Sew Amigurumi Bundle patterns use hdc rows for ears, brims and decorative ridges. Start with a single hdc-using pattern from the bundle and you will learn three real-world hdc applications inside one project.
💡 The "swatch first" rule: Before starting any new hdc project, work a 10 cm × 10 cm test swatch. Count the stitches and rows per 10 cm — that is your gauge. If your gauge does not match the pattern's, change hook size up or down by 0.5 mm until it does. This single habit prevents 90% of finished-project disappointments.
Common half double crochet mistakes to avoid
- Forgetting to yarn over before inserting. The single biggest hdc mistake. Without the pre-insertion yarn-over, you make a single crochet instead of a half double. Chant the rhythm: "yarn over, insert."
- Pulling through two loops instead of three. A half double finishes by pulling through ALL three loops in one motion. Pulling through two-then-two by accident creates a double crochet instead.
- Inconsistent turning-chain handling. Decide at the start of a project whether your chain-2 counts as a stitch and stick to it on every row. Flipping between conventions creates visible edge irregularities.
- Working into the wrong third loop. The "third loop" technique requires inserting into the small bumpy loop on the back, not the top Vs. Mixing them produces an uneven texture.
- Hook size too small for drape. The hdc shines when worked with a slightly looser gauge. If your scarf feels stiff, go up one full hook size and the drape transforms.
- Counting the turning chain twice. Either chain-2 counts (count it once) or it does not count (do not count it at all). Counting it twice creates a one-stitch-too-many problem on every row.
- Skipping the foundation chain check. Always count your initial chain before starting the first hdc row. A miscounted foundation chain ruins the entire piece.
Frequently asked questions about half double crochet
What is a half double crochet (hdc)?
The half double crochet is one of the four basic US crochet stitches. It sits between the single crochet and the double crochet in both height and density. The defining motion: yarn over before inserting the hook, then yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over once more and pull through all three loops at once. The hdc produces a soft, slightly textured fabric that is faster than sc and drapier than dc.
What is the difference between hdc and dc?
Both stitches yarn over before insertion. The difference is in the finishing pull-through. A double crochet (dc) pulls through two loops, then yarn-overs and pulls through the final two loops in a second motion — producing a taller, more open stitch. A half double crochet (hdc) pulls through all three loops in a single motion — producing a shorter, denser stitch. The hdc is roughly 1.5 times the height of a single crochet; the dc is roughly 2 times.
How many chains do you need for a half double crochet turning chain?
Two chains. At the start of each new row, chain 2 before working the first hdc. Patterns differ on whether the chain-2 counts as a stitch or is purely a height-builder — check the pattern's notes. MrsCrochetWorld patterns use the convention that chain-2 does NOT count as a stitch, which produces cleaner edges without a start-of-row gap.
Where does the yarn over go in a half double crochet?
The yarn over goes before you insert your hook into the stitch. This is the single most important difference from the single crochet, which has no yarn over before insertion. Yarn over once, then insert your hook into the next stitch, then yarn over again and pull through. Forgetting the first yarn-over is the most common hdc mistake and turns the stitch into a single crochet.
How do you count half double crochet stitches?
Count the V-shapes along the top edge of your row. If your pattern treats the chain-2 turning chain as a stitch, count it as stitch number 1 and continue across. If your pattern treats chain-2 as height-only, ignore the turning chain and count only the actual hdc Vs. Always count at the end of each row to catch miscounts before they propagate.
What is the "third loop" in half double crochet?
The third loop is the bumpy back loop that sits along the top of each hdc row when you flip the work over. It is the third loop that was "pulled through" during the stitch's final motion. Working into this third loop on subsequent rows creates a decorative horizontal ridge — popular for hat brims, basket trims and amigurumi accents.
What hook size should I use for half double crochet?
For worsted-weight yarn (#4), use a 5.0 mm (US H/8) or 5.5 mm (US I/9) hook for flat hdc work like scarves and blankets. For hdc in amigurumi where you need to retain density, drop one full size to 4.0 mm (US G/6). Always make a 10 cm test swatch and adjust hook size by 0.5 mm in either direction until your gauge matches the pattern.
Is half double crochet good for amigurumi?
Yes, in specific places. The single crochet remains the workhorse stitch for amigurumi bodies and heads because of its density, but the hdc is excellent for neck transitions on longer-necked characters, hat brims worn by plushies, floppy ears (bunnies, elephants), skirts and capes, and the wider tip of bunny tails. Always drop one hook size smaller than for flat work to keep amigurumi hdc dense enough to hide stuffing.
Why are my half double crochets uneven?
Three common causes: inconsistent yarn-over tension (try pulling each yarn-over the same distance up the hook), miscounting the turning chain (decide once whether chain-2 counts as a stitch and stick to it), or stopping the pull-through at two loops instead of three (which creates an accidental double crochet mid-row). Slow down, work each motion deliberately, and the unevenness disappears within ten stitches.
Can I work half double crochet in the round?
Yes. Hdc rounds work just like sc rounds — increase at intervals to grow the circle, or work straight for cylinders. Hdc rounds give faster height per round than sc rounds, which is useful for hat crowns and the cylindrical bodies of longer-bodied amigurumi like snakes and worms. For closed amigurumi work, join each round with a slip stitch and chain 2 to begin the next round.
Summary — master the hdc in 15 minutes
The half double crochet is the friendliest of the basic stitches: faster than single crochet, drapier, softer, and the stitch that builds the muscle memory for every taller stitch you will ever crochet. The key motion is yarn over before inserting your hook, then yarn over and pull through to get three loops on the hook, then yarn over one more time and pull through all three loops in a single motion. Use the chain-2 turning chain (and decide once per project whether it counts as a stitch), count your stitches at the end of every row, and drop one hook size smaller when working hdc inside an amigurumi. Once mastered, the hdc opens up scarves, blankets, hats, beanies, and all the amigurumi accents that make a plushie look professional rather than basic.
🧶 Patterns & books to practise hdc
- Easy No-Sew Amigurumi Book for Beginners (50 patterns) — many patterns use hdc for hat brims, ears and neck transitions; the perfect way to practise the stitch inside real projects.
- 50+ No-Sew Amigurumi Patterns Bundle (PDF) — fifty plushies that introduce hdc gradually as ear-and-accent stitches alongside the main sc body work.
- Care Bears Crochet Pattern — 4 Amigurumi Teddy Bears (PDF) — uses hdc for the soft floppy ears and tummy patches on each of the four bears.
Practise hdc inside real amigurumi projects
The Easy No-Sew Amigurumi Book uses hdc in dozens of cute plushie pieces. Fifty beginner-friendly patterns. One PDF, lifetime access, instant download.
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